Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for Stage Lighting Manufacturers
1. Help with my tank?Well we know it isn't rust or marine velvet. Slimey, fins Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly! It can also be the start of ich. There are a few different kinds and knowing what kind you have will determine what you need to treat for. more on ich. ( love it when people copy my answers from previous questions) Is it white spot disease or is it Ich? You need to know the difference between the two since they are treated differently. Cryptocaryoniasis, White Spot Disease or Marine Ich (which explains why salt will not kill ich) is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans. Although Cryptocaryon becomes a parasitic organism at one stage in its life cycle like Oodinium and Brooklynella do, and it progesses less rapidly than these other ich diseases, in a closed aquarium system it can reach overwhelming and disasterous numbers just the same if it is not diagnosed and treated upon recognition. Unlike Oodinium and Brooklynella that typically attack the gills first, which allows these ich diseases to advance into life-threatening levels quickly as they go unnoticed, Cryptocaryon usually appears at the onset as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, and when the organisms become parasitic, it is then that they move inwards to the gills. Because crypto is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, this makes it much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control. Aside from the appearance of the white spots, fish will scratch against objects in an attempt to dislodge the parasites, and rapid respiration develops as tomonts, mucus, and tissue debris clogs the gills. Fish become listless, refuse to eat, loss of color occurs in patches or blotches as the trophonts destroy the pigment cells, and secondary bacterial infections invade the lesions caused by the trophonts. Although copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate crypto organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not as effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish. A combination of freshwater and formalin treatments adminstered by means of dips, baths, and prolonged treatment over a period of time in a QT is recommended Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if Cryptocaryon is not eradicated from the main aquarium, which can be accomplished by keeping the tank devoid of any fish for at least 4 weeks. For fish-only aquariums hyposalinity can be applied, and to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, elevate the tank temperature to 85 degrees for 10 days to 12 days. For treating reef tanks, FishVet No-Ich Marine, Ruby Reef Kick-Ich, and Chem-Marin Stop Parasites are Cryptocaryon specific remedies that are said to be "reef safe". Several days prior to returning fish to the main aquarium, clean all filtering equipment, change any filtering materials, and do a water change. Remember to remove all filters media and turn off protein skimmers when treating for any types of Ich. Although many over-the-counter remedies contain the general name Ich or Ick, carefully read the product information to be sure it is designed to specifically target and treat "Cryptocaryon" Brooklynella hostilis - these protozoa reproduce asexually by means of simple binary fission through conjugation, which is why they are able to multiply so much more rapidly than Cryptocaryon (White Spot), and Oodinium (Velvet Ich), and why it can kill fish within a few days and even hours upon recognition Most similar symptomatically to Oodinium, this too is a parasite that primarily attacks the gills first. At the onset fish may scrap up against objects, rapid respiration develops, and fish often gasp for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Fish become lethargic, refuse to eat, and colors fade, but the most noticeable difference that sets Brooklynella apart from Oodinium is the heavy amount of slime that is produced. As the disease progresses a thick whitish mucus covers the body, usually starting at the head and spreading outward, skin lesions appear, and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections to arise. Suggestions range from copper, malachite green and other remedies, with some recommended being used in conjunction with formaldehyde. However the general consensus is these types of medications are either largely ineffective or do not work at all, and that the best and most effective treatment for Brooklynella is formaldehyde alone. Typically a standard 37% formalin solution (shop & compare prices) is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container, initially all fish are given a quick dip or a prolonged bath, followed by continued treatment and care in a QT. Of course the longer fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this "disease". Whether to administer a dip or a bath to start with is something you will have to determine yourself, but there's a very simple way to do this. Since these are Free swimming parasites which are in watersources, come attached to our fish etc. The only way to ensure NO ICH is to get a UV Sterilizer and addit to the tank. The UV Sterilizer kills the free swimming forms of various ich and other parasites. Hope this helps I honestly believe it is slime coat problem. Watch your fish carefully.------2. need info on refinishing wood floors?Remember that the floor has had a lot of wear and tear and may have been abused-improper maintenance products may have been applied for years. There could be wax, furniture polish or other household cleaners that are not intended for hardwood floors present on the floor. If left behind in the seams or wood cells, these contaminants could cause white lines to appear in the finished floor. This could occur throughout the entire surface or only in heavy traffic areas. The white or cloudy stripes or lines that you now see can happen to any refinish job that has a surface finish, whether it's water-based, oil-modified or another type. When sanding and refinishing an older or existing wood floor, there are many precautions to take. Proper choice of sandpaper and proper sanding procedures are critical. Knowing what grit of sand-paper to start and finish with could prevent problems in the finishing stages. The floor must be cut properly each time it is sanded. Different grits of sandpaper (coarse, medium and fine) should be used on succeeding cuts. If these procedures are not followed during the sanding process, problems can occur. Most people get into trouble when the floor sands easily and the old finish cuts right off, because they then take shortcuts by eliminating a sanding step. When you eliminate a sanding step (i.e., skip a grit), you leave contaminants on the floor. Following all sanding steps ensures sufficient wood is cut to eliminate or at least minimize the amount of contaminant left in the floor. In some cases, trowel-filling with latex filler between the medium cut and fine cut, or grain filling after the fine cut and before screening may eliminate some of the problems. Improper screening between coats may also contribute to the problem. Inter-coat adhesion is very important. In the finishing stages of the job, it is critical that you follow the finish manufacturers' recommended procedures for applying finish and preparing the floor between coats. Too often when a floor is coated, there is not enough time spent on preparation between coats. Buffing with an abrasive pad or a screen to smooth and abrade the finish between each coat is a very important part of the finishing process. Some manufacturers' finish products can be coated without padding or screening between certain coats. The finishers must have good judgment up front. On all finishes, dry time is very important to the coating process and how the job looks and performs after it is complete. If you know that you will be using a water based product on a refinish job, you must consider extra dry time. Just because a finish is dry enough on the surface doesn't mean it will be dry in the seams or side matches of the hardwood floors. Finishes or stains will aggravate or loosen any contaminants that are present, so pay particular attention to finish in end-joints and side-matches. Remember that contaminants are not seen or detected until after the first, second or third coat is applied. Old floors also move more than new floors. They have been exposed to the elements longer and the structure has settled over the years. A floor that is tight, with minimal cracks, is deceiving. Even though it looks tight, it may move up and down. In this case, it will cause the finish to stretch at the seams, resulting in the white or cloudy lines in the floor. This appearance can worsen over a period of time. The best prevention against this stretching of the finish is to keep a constant humidity level, thereby keeping floor movement to a minimum. Dark floors such as mahogany will show the effects much more than a lighter floor. When sanding and refinishing an older floor, keep in mind what problems that may occur. Good job-site inspection should be done at the time of the estimate and all findings written on the contract or job order. When a floor such as this is refinished, it is the responsibility of the wood flooring contractor to educate the customer. Don't hang yourself out to dry in this situation !